Dating back to the 7th century BC, Nerello Mascalese is a heroic vine that is very widespread in the Etna area. A true “Prince” that brings all the strength and uniqueness of Sicily to the glass.

It represents one of the many Italian prides and one of the infinite Sicilian prides. After Nero d'Avola it is the second most cultivated vine in Sicily . Called " Niuriddu mascalisi " in Sicilian, Nerello Mascalese is a vine that grows mainly on Etna, in the province of Catania. The name Mascalese refers to its place of origin which is the Piana di Mascali, an agricultural area between the sea and Etna located on the eastern side of the volcano.

The territory

Today, the cultivation of the vine is present throughout the Etna area of ​​the aforementioned province. The territory of excellence, however, remains that around the municipalities of Castiglione di Sicilia and Randazzo, between Rovittello, Solicchiata, Calderara, Passopisciaro and Linguaglossa: in this area, in fact, its heroic vineyards have resisted the Phylloxera epidemic and the conformation of the volcanic soils, the high altitude (up to 1100 meters above sea level) and the vine cultivation practice, have made this vine very resistant.

Its presence in Sicily can also be found on the hills and along the coasts overlooking the Strait of Messina and in the strip of land closed between the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Ionian Sea, giving life to the DOC “Faro” whose name could derive from Punta Faro, the extreme point of the Strait of Messina, or from the Greek population of the Pharii , colonizers of much of the Messina hills. We cannot fail to mention in this context, for example, the Palari company that produces one of the maximum expressions of Nerello Mascalese through one of its flagship wines, “Faro”, which seals in a sip, territory, quality and elegance.

Nerello Mascalese: the origins

The history of Nerello and the origins of this vine can be traced back to the 7th century BC with the Greek colonization of the coasts of Messina and Calabria where the Greeks initially spread the cult of Dionysus and began the cultivation of the vine. The production of wine subsequently extended to the Catania and Messina areas up to the slopes of Etna. With the fall of the Roman Empire, the cultivation of the vine and the production of wine did not have particular momentum and the territory of Nerello Mascalese was not at the time known and famous as it is today.

Coming then to the modern age, in 1543 Charles V granted Bishop Caracciolo the elevation of the Mascali plain to County: the lands of Mascali were therefore granted in usufruct to the winemakers, who contributed significantly to the selection of this variety. However, only at the end of the 20th century were the interesting results known today obtained: with important work, carried out especially in the new millennium, the quality of the native vine was enhanced and the designations of origin were introduced.

Today, the wines obtained from the vinification of this vine are among the most appreciated at an international level and a date certainly to remember is that of 1968 when Nerello Mascalese became the basis for the DOC denomination of Etna Rosso, of which it represents at least 80%, while the remaining 20% ​​is given by the Nerello Cappuccio vine.

The Lighthouse Doc

The recognition of the Faro Doc dates back to 1976 and provides, according to the specifications, the use of Nerello Mascalese grapes from a minimum of 45 to 60%, Nerello Cappuccio from 15 to 30%, Nocera from 5 to 10%. But what is so special about this grape?

Let's start by noting that its most prestigious versions go under the denomination Etna Doc and that Nerello Mascalese is certainly one of the most elegant Italian red wines. The different expressions of the grape, even annual ones, depend greatly on the climatic conditions, the slope of the Etna volcano and the altitude. An important peculiarity of this vine is its late ripening which in the Etna area, in fact, generally takes place in mid-October: the bunches that are harvested are only the best, because they are selected and kissed by the sun thanks to a previous defoliation.

Instead, analyzing its organoleptic aspect, it is necessary to distinguish between the pure Nerello Mascalese and the one vinified without marc. The pure one has a deep red color, a cherry red tending towards garnet and on the nose it presents itself with elegant aromas of small red fruits and with hints of licorice and spices, while on the palate it is dry, finely tannic, persistent and harmonious.

The one vinified without marc, instead, is known as “Pesta in Botte”: this particular wine takes on a deep red color and intense aromas of violet, small red fruits and spices and its taste is full, warm and dry and furthermore, if grown on volcanic soil, it is characterized by a strong minerality. An indigenous vine whose sip lets all the elegance of a land emerge and whose finesse magically leaves you speechless.

Beyond the umpteenth testimony of the vastness and preciousness of Italian wine production, tasting Nerello Mascalese represents a truly unique territorial experience and is like diving into Sicily among pine trees, rocks, sea and sun that burns the skin, because these are its noble scents and to this nobility we can also give a title, the privileged and undisputed one of "Prince" of Etna which represents the Sicilians with all their strength, tradition and uniqueness.

Written by Carlo Attisano for mangiaebevi.it