Wines in amphora: history and characteristics of a refinement method that looks to the future from the past.

Luxury can be measured in many ways without necessarily being tied to the preciousness of an object. Often, on the contrary, it is precisely the immateriality of a thing, the creation of an experience or a memory, that generates this sensation (the one linked to the term "luxury" precisely). An unwritten rule, which however represents a must in life, is that according to which "there is no future without a past" and today, more than ever, we are trying to revive in the world of food and wine some ancient techniques for the processing of food and drinks that can further enhance their taste and keep their nutritional properties intact. This is precisely the case of wines in amphora .

Once upon a time they were the norm, then for centuries they ended up in oblivion. Now they are back in fashion and also represent one of the keys to the development of this sector. Trends and history intertwine around a product that rediscovers the characteristics and advantages of the jars of the past, making it essential to understand how wines in amphora are made.

The amphora in history

The amphora (or jar) has represented since ancient times one of the containers for preserving fermented foods and drinks. The jar made its first appearance with the Greeks, then was taken up by the Etruscans who spread it throughout Italy: inside it, wines are born, aged and transported on ships.

The thermal insulation capacity of terracotta amphorae allows, in fact, perfect conservation of wine. It should be noted, however, that it was Georgian wine producers who revived and preserved the methods and techniques of producing wines in amphorae, called qvevri : these are buried until the following spring to allow the fermentation and refinement of the wines, regardless of whether they are white or red. UNESCO has included Georgian wines among the intangible cultural heritage of humanity.

Today in Italy, after years in which wood, stainless steel and cement seemed to have relegated the amphora to oblivion, it is not only back in fashion, but represents an increasingly important alternative for the future of the sector. The great Josko Gravner was the first producer to experiment in Italy, more than twenty years ago, with the winemaking techniques he learned in Georgia: in 2000, in fact, he replaced all the containers in his cellar with Georgian amphorae. After Gravner, other Italian producers have followed this path, some of them with excellent quality wines.

The benefits of amphora on wine

But what is the reason why wines in amphora are so appreciated? First of all, the amphora preserves the organoleptic characteristics of the wine unaltered, allowing, in fact, a constant micro-oxygenation that keeps its flavor unaltered. Its peculiarities then, make it suitable for different vinifications compared to wood and steel: compared to the latter, in fact, it is more breathable and porous so as to guarantee an exchange with external oxygen that allows an oxidation refinement ideal for wines that require long preparation times; compared to wood, however, it is more neutral since a barrique, for example, even if it allows natural oxygenation, transfers its aromas and flavors to the wine, which on the contrary, does not happen with terracotta. This is why the amphora is suitable for very long refinements and extreme vinifications.

How are amphora wines created ?

In terracotta winemaking, the grapes are left to ferment in amphorae that, in some cases, are buried: the process starts in 1-3 days and the fermentation is spontaneous as no yeasts are added to the wine. During this process, the maceration of the skins also occurs and the producer carries out the so-called fulling , that is, the marc that comes to the surface is re-immersed through a manual process, even several times a day, until the end of the alcoholic fermentation. We then move on to the maceration and extraction of the organic compounds of the skins, which are important for defining the aromatic profile of the wine and its refinement.

Beyond quality and flavor, producing wines in amphora offers at least two advantages . The first is related to duration: these containers are practically eternal as they do not need to be replaced unlike wood which needs to be changed after a few passages. The second advantage, however, lies in the fact that terracotta prevents the spread of microorganisms that are harmful to the organoleptic profile of wines and cause unpleasant odors.

It cannot fail to be evident, therefore, that linking oneself to the refinement in amphora means not only adding value and unique nuances to the wine, giving the consumer the possibility of choosing a different taste dimension in which to immerse themselves, but also giving charm and above all basic quality thanks to the material that composes it which automatically becomes a natural “guarantor” of the success of the product, beyond personal taste.

The final result, therefore, is able to bring out a common thread that runs through the dimension of elegance and quality, inextricably linking the two aspects to each other. An intelligent rediscovery that has been able to adapt perfectly to the needs of the modern palate, therefore, a taste-olfactory privilege that fades into an experiential luxury, its tasting.

Written by Carlo Attisano for mangiaebevi.it